Cradle of Hills

Paul and Tracy Smith make about 800 cases a year at Sellicks Hill, at the southern end of McLaren Vale, where they live among the vines. Paul caught the wine bug in the Navy wardroom cellar; Tracy is a botanist who tends the vineyard. Shiraz, Cabernet and Rhône blends come off their own rows plus a little bought-in Grenache, everything done by hand from picking to basket press. Tastings by appointment, with olives, chickens and an orchard out the back.